Sandwiched between serene palm-fringed backwaters on the west and the wild Western Ghats to the east, Kottayam is an important centre of the Syrian Christian community in Kerala. Aptly christened the Rome of the East, this Syrian stronghold is renowned for its churches and houses built in the colonial style. As one approaches this little town, one cannot but revel in the unique beauty of nature—the lush countryside of rubber, tea, coffee, teak, cardamom, and pepper plantations. These plantation crops have given Kottayam the status of a prominent trading centre of South India. No wonder, a large chunk of India’s natural rubber originates from the fertile fields of Kottayam.

Kottayam came into limelight when it was declared the first fully literate municipal town of India, an event that triggered a mass movement to make Kerala the country’s only state to achieve total literacy. Kottayam is also the birthplace of the state’s publishing industry, and is home to a number of globally renowned newspapers and magazines including Malayala Manorama (India’s largest circulated daily), The Week, Mathrubhumi, and Deepika.

Part of Circuit

Kottayam is a part of the Trivandrum-Kollam-Alleppey-Kottayam-Thekkady-Madurai circuit covering destinations in Kerala and Tamil Nadu.

Panoramic backwater stretches, lush paddy fields, highlands, extensive rubber plantations—these and more draw thousands of tourists to the small but scenic town of Kottayam every year. Obviously, the first attraction of Kottayam is its extensive backwaters. Backwaters refer to the large inland lakes that are formed by the unique artisanship of the sea. Vembanad Lake, which is the largest lake in Kerala, is one such place where you can hire what is locally known as a kettuvallam (houseboat), and explore the scenic backwaters. These houseboats are equipped with all basic facilities like kitchen, toilet, bathroom, sit outs, etc. They move gracefully around the backwaters, allowing you to enjoy the beauty of the lake at a relaxed pace.

You can also roam about the town to see its numerous churches, including the two Syrian churches—the Valiapalli and Cheriapalli—that still retain their old-world charm. Explore the eastern part of the town, and you will find the most picturesque region of the Western Ghats, lined with lush coffee, rubber, pepper, tea, and cardamom plantations. If you have the leisure, take some time off to stroll along these plantations and you will discover yourself surrounded by acres of greenery all around.

However, to most tourists, Kottayam acts a fascinating stopover on their way to somewhere else—either on their trip to or from Alappuzha or Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, or on their way to the temple at Sabarimala.

The name ‘Kottayam’ is derived from two Malayalam words—kotta and akkam—which, when combined, means the interior of a fort. The history of Kottayam dates back to the 9th century AD when it was a part of the Kulashekara Empire (AD 1090–1102). It was then referred to as Vempolinad (the logical root of the Vembanad Lake), which split into the kingdoms of Thekkumkur and Vadakkumkur by about AD 1102. Both these kingdoms were later annexed by Marthanda Varma of Travancore between 1748 and 1754. Marthanda Varma also annexed two petty principalities—namely, Poonjar and Meenachil—and gave Kottayam a prominent place among the princely states of the South. Spices like pepper and cardamom attracted foreign merchants to this land, and soon Marthanda Varma established contacts with the Portuguese and the Dutch.

Dharma Raja (1758–1798), who succeeded Marthanda Varma, placed Kottayam in a key position in the new defence strategy against Haider Ali and Tipu Sultan of Mysore. He offered political asylum to several rulers who left the Malabar in the wake of the Mysore invasions.

Kottayam played a major role in the Malayali Memorial agitation of recent times. This mass movement sought to secure better representation of the educated citizens of Travancore in the civil services. The movement culminated with a memorial being presented to Maharaja Sri Mulam Thirunal in 1891. The memorial was drafted at a public meeting held in the Kottayam Public Library and the event marked the beginning of the modern political movement in the state.

Kottayam was also the breeding ground for the Vaikom Satyagraha (1924–25), an epic struggle for eradication of untouchability in the state. Vaikom, the seat of a Shiva Temple, formed the venue of the symbolic Satyagraha. Several national leaders like Mahatma Gandhi, C. Rajagopalachari, and Acharya Vinoba Bhave were associated with this struggle.

The history of Kottayam is incomplete without a mention of its Syrian Christian community, which traces its origin to Saint Thomas who visited the region in AD 53. Saint Thomas is said to have established seven churches on the Malabar Coast. However, with the arrival of the Portuguese in the 16th century, many of the Syrian Christians were forced to convert to Roman Catholicism. The Portuguese even intercepted ships carrying Syrian Bishops to prevent them from joining their churches in Kerala. As a result, efforts were made to train Indian priests, and the Thomas Christians were permitted to use the Syriac liturgy in 1599. However, a split occurred in the Syrian church in 1655, which paved the way for further splits in the 18th and 19th centuries. Several of these breakaway factions came back later when the Church of South India was formed in 1947.

The climate of Kottayam is moderate and pleasant. The temperature varies from a minimum of 19.58°C during December to a maximum of 34.33°C between April and May. The average annual rainfall is 2,701.7 mm. The southwest and northeast monsoons give a normal rainfall of 1,737 mm and 804 mm, respectively.

The best time to visit Kottayam is from October to March.

This temple is situated in the heart of Kottayam town. Built in the South Indian style of temple architecture, it has several interesting murals on its walls. The sanctum sanctorum is decorated with scenes from Hindu epics. The temple attracts a large number of pilgrims in the third week of March when the annual temple festival is held.

Built in AD 1550, the Valiapalli (valia: big) is the larger of the two churches dedicated to St. Mary. It is located in Thazhathangadi about 4 km northwest of the town centre. It is famous for two 8th-century Persian crosses with Pahlavi inscriptions that prove them to be the earliest examples of Christianity in India.

Adjacent to the Valiapalli, the church of Cheriapalli (cheria: small) is also dedicated to St. Mary. It was built in AD 1579 and houses some exquisite vegetable dye paintings on the ceilings and walls depicting biblical and non-biblical themes.

The 1,000-year-old mosque at Thazhathangadi is believed to have been built by Malik Dinar. Built in the Kerala style of architecture, it is an important pilgrim centre of Kottayam.

Situated behind the civil station of Kottayam, the Good Shepherd Church is the first church of the Diocese of Vijayapuram. Built in the Italian style, its construction was completed in 1882 and was further renovated in 1964. The annual feast of Good Shepherd is held here in the month of April.

On the great waterways of Kerala, fierce vallom kallies (boat races) and water carnivals erupt every year in a dramatic spectacle and hold tens of thousands of people spellbound, cheering the action, laying bets, goading the boatmen to row faster. At Thazhathangadi near Kottayam, the water carnivals and snake boat races herald the week of the great harvest festival of Onam. It is Kerala’s most important celebration and in scores of villages spread across central Kerala, competitive races featuring the smaller churulans, oadis, and irrutukuthies (kinds of race boats) provide expression to the spirit of an intrepid, athletic people, born and bred near water.

On the appointed day, with the mist still on the river and dew drops sparkling like hundreds of tiny diamonds on the grass, the boatmen make their way down to the boats. Working in rhythm and combining their energies, the crews smear the snake boats with coconut oil to smooth their passage through the water.

These graceful black boats, once decorated with glittering gold ornaments and the coat of arms of a prince or chief, are up to a hundred feet in length and can accommodate more than a hundred people. Both ends of a snake boat curl out of the water—the flared stern as much as 15 to 20 ft in length. The towering sterns are shaped like menacing cobra hoods, and so the boats came to be known as snake boats.

Memories of the grand old days of the rivers and waterways still colour the thoughts of the boatmen and the large multitude of people lining the slopes studded with coconut palms, and endow the boat races with an aura of rooted traditionalism. A phalanx of carved oars strokes the water faster and faster as the pacesetters vigorously stamp the crucial mood and rhythm. After each tumultuous practice run, people exchange thoughtful, appraising comments before placing their precious bets. Two days prior to the race, all practice runs cease and speculation on boat favourites runs high.

On the day of the race, the excitement is almost palpable when the time comes for the boats to line up. Under the protection of ancient gods, the boatmen row towards the starting line. Children, thrilled to the core, watch with big black wondering eyes and spirited women sporting red, white, mauve or yellow flowers in their hair jostle for vantage points. The insistent drumming and whistling give way to a split second of spellbound silence and stillness as the starter drops his flag. Then a wild whooping cheer goes up from the ecstatic crowds and the snake boats, their cobra hoods rearing, dart through the water, sending the spray flying as they zip down the course, oars dipping and flashing in unison.

For both the spectators and the boat crews, the moment is supreme. The snake boats, their pennants whipped by the wind, cut a shimmering swathe through the water and the bare backs of the boatmen shine in the brightness of a perfect, cloudless day.

As the palm trees sway gently in the wind, the joy of Onam with its colourful tempestuous boat races recedes over the backwaters and rivers of Kerala. The bright-eyed festive crowds packed on the edge of the palm girt watercourses disperse, thinking perhaps of bets to lay again next year, dreaming perhaps of owning a snake boat—the sauciest, swiftest, most fascinating snake boat that ever roved the great waterways of Kerala.

While the wind whispers softly amongst the coconut palms of Kottayam, a mesmerizing peacock dance holds spectators captive and takes them on an aesthetic voyage of art and performing skills at their purest. A part of the nine-day temple festival at Kottayam, the rare peacock dance is but one of the many traditional facets that are re-enacted and recreated during the Thirunakkara Mahadevar Temple Utsavam held in mid-March.

The spirited, war like performance of the Velakali and Kathakali (a world-famous traditional dance form of Kerala) performances all through the night heighten the ambience of the festival. Processions of richly caparisoned elephants and drummers in large numbers enhance the powerful visual effect of the festival. Inside the temple, age-old rituals are performed as devotees offer prayers and thanksgiving.

Located 43 km from Kottayam, Ayyampara is a little-known scenic spot of rocky plains where a 100-acre area of flat rock makes a natural granite platform ideal for enjoying the sunset and the view of the town below. It is also an ideal place for trekking.

The town of Bharananganam is an important Christian pilgrimage centre located 5 km east of Palai on the Kottayam-Erattupetta road. The chapel next to the St. Mary’s Church here is revered as the site of the internment of Sister Alphonsa (1916–1946) whose death anniversary falls on July 20. This 1000-year-old church also features an attractive grotto of Virgin Mary. There are regular buses from Kottayam to Bharananganam.

A Hindu pilgrimage centre, Ettumanoor, located 12 km north of Kottayam, is famous for its legendary 16th-century Shiva temple. The temple is a specimen of Kerala’s indigenous style of temple architecture, incorporating clear-cut woodcarvings and murals, including an exceptionally striking one of Shiva as Nataraja trampling underfoot the spirit of evil represented by a demon. The annual 10-day festival of the temple occurs in February/March. Buses from Ernakulam to Kottayam pass through Ettumanoor.

Located on the banks of the Vembanad Lake, barely 12 km west of Kottayam town and spread over 14 acres of lush greenery and blue waters, Kumarakom is a bird sanctuary known for local varieties of waterfowl, cuckoo, and water ducks, as well as migrating Siberian storks. The Kerala Tourism Development Corporation rents boats (Rs. 60 per hour) for backwater cruises in the Vembanad Lake.

The sanctuary is open from 10 am to 6 pm. The best time to visit this avian abode is between June and August. The Taj Garden Retreat, built around the 50-year-old Baker’s Bungalow, provides excellent accommodation facilities at Kumarakom.

An important Syrian Christian centre, the town of Mannanam, 8 km from Kottayam, is home to St. Joseph’s Monastery. The mortal remains of Fr. Kuriakose Elias of Chavara (1805–1871), one of the saintly figures of the Syrian Catholic Church of Kerala, are preserved in the monastery. Another renowned institution here is the St. Joseph’s Press. Established in 1844, this is one of the oldest printing presses in Kerala.

Vaikom, located 40 km from Kottayam and 29 km from Ernakulam, is famous for a Shiva temple, which, according to a legend, was constructed by Parasuram, the mythical founder of Kerala. In contemporary history, Vaikom shot into prominence when it became the venue for the famous Satyagraha of 1925, when a mass movement led by Mahatma Gandhi succeeded in opening the gates of the temple to the Harijans (untouchables). The 12-day Ashtami Festival held here in November/December is marked by elephant processions, religious discourses, and performances of dance and music. There are frequent buses from Kottayam and Ernakulam to Vaikom.

The beautiful hill station of Wagamon is perched at 1,100 m above sea level. Situated 60 km from Kottayam and 30 km from Palai, Wagamon is a trekker’s paradise.

The temple is situated at Changanacherry, 23 km from Kottayam. It is believed that this is one of the five temples where the original Vishnu image worshipped by the Pandavas is kept. The temple has many inscriptions, one of which dates back to the reign of Bhaskara Ravi Varma who ruled Kerala in ancient times. The Deepam Festival celebrated in November/December is the most important festival in this temple.

Situated about 60 km northeast of Kottayam, this is an important pilgrim centre for both the Hindus and Muslims. The Sri Dharma Sastha Temple here is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Ayyappa. There is also an ancient mosque dedicated to Vavar, the companion of the deity of the Sabarimala Temple, Lord Ayyappa. The mosque is unique in that Hindu pilgrims customarily worship here before their trek to Sabarimala.

Although taxis are available at Kottayam, they are seldom hired for local transport within the town. However, for visiting distant places, especially destinations that involve a daylong trip, taxis are your best bet. A trip to the wildlife park at Thekkady (114 km), for instance, would cost around Rs 1,000.

You can also comfortably roam around Kottayam in an auto-rickshaw, which can cost you around Rs. 15-20 from the town centre to the railway station, KSRTC bus stand, or the Town Jetty.

There are two ferry stations at Kottayam. The Town Jetty, which operates during the monsoon, is about 3 km away from the railway station. The Kodimatha Jetty functions during the summer season, when the water level recedes in the Town Jetty.

The ferry timings for some important destinations are as follows:

Alappuzha (Alleppey): 07.15, 10.00, 11.30, 13.00, 15.00, 17.30 (3 hours)
Munnar: 14.30 (3 hours)
Chambakulam: 15.30 (4 hours)

Tourists can also hire individual boats to Alappuzha by paying an amount of Rs. 500 to Rs. 600.

The nearest airport is at Cochin (Kochi) located 76 km from Kottayam. Another airport is at Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) 160 km away.

Kottayam is well connected with the major towns in and outside Kerala by an extensive rail network.

The railway station is situated just 2 km away from the central bus station. There are regular trains from Kottayam to Thiruvananthapuram, Kollam (165 km), and Ernakulam (65 km).

Kottayam is connected to major cities of South India by good motorable roads. There are two bus stations, the Kerala State Road Transport Corporation bus station on TB Road and a private bus stand near the railway station. Buses to major centres operate from the KSRTC bus station.

The head post office is situated on MC Road and is open from 8 am to 8 pm on weekdays and from 2 pm to 5.30 pm on holidays. The telegraph office is situated near Pulimood Junction. It works round the clock.

Banking facilities for foreign nationals are available at the State Bank of India, KK Road Branch, near Manorama Junction.

Kerala Tourism Development Corporation’s (KTDC) Hotel Aishwarya
Kottayam
Phone: 00-91-481-584303

Tourist Information Counter
Kottayam District Promotion Council,
Thirunakkara Maidan
Kottayam

Concord Tours and Travels
G. S. Road,
Kottayam 686 001
Phone: 00-91-481-560350
Fax: 00-91-481-564249

Kottayam Railway Station
Kottayam, Kerala

Kottayam Medical College and Hospital
Kottayam, India
Phone: 00-91-481-597311

District Hospital
KK Road, Kottayam

Sukhodaya Ayurvedic Hospital
Kanjikuzhy,
Kottayam 686 004
Phone: 00-91-481-572179, 578554

RI Hari Hospital
Ponkunnam,
Kottayam 686 506